Thanksgiving is like my Super Bowl. When I completed culinary school in 2008, I took over the task of Thanksgiving menu planning from my mom. It’s a job she was happy to give up. After raising four kids while working full time, she’d cooked enough in her day. But even though her days as the Thanksgiving chef are over, she insists on contributing in some way.
Every year, that contribution is her famous (or perhaps infamous) butternut squash, which has become a bit of a running family joke. I am one of four girls, and my sisters and I have been known to poke fun at this dish. While it may not paint us in the best light (I promise we are kind), we’ve always referred to this squash as baby food.
Her version is dead simple—just steamed butternut squash mashed with a little butter, brown sugar, and salt and pepper. Presented in a simple old-school casserole dish, this unassuming side has nothing on our intricately assembled gratins.
When all is said and eaten, she gets the last laugh. She cheekily pointed out at a recent Thanksgiving that despite its humbleness, her butternut squash is the only dish that consistently disappears, year after year. Turns out, sometimes simple really is best.
Optional Upgrades
This year, I set out to develop a slightly elevated version of my Mom’s iconic mashed butternut squash, but with her calculated restraint in mind. My version is a bit fancier than my mom’s (because of who I am as a person) but remains incredibly simple.
In addition to roasting the squash for more flavor, I like to add brown butter. If you have time, I highly recommend it for the added toastiness.
I like to add a bit of cayenne pepper to balance out the inherent sweetness of the squash but feel free to skip it if you want this side dish to skew sweet. In terms of sweetener, brown sugar is classic, but you can swap in 1/4 cup of maple syrup instead if you want to amp up the fall flavors.
I can’t say my version will replace hers on the holiday table anytime soon, but I’ll have fun forcing my kids to enjoy this elevated baby food all season long!Â
How To Make My Mom’s (Upgraded) Mashed Butternut Squash
For roughly 3 cups, or 5 to 6 servings, you’ll need:
- 1 medium butternut squash (about 2 pounds), halved lengthwise, seeds scooped and discarded
- 1 teaspoon neutral oil, like avocado oil
- 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
- 6 tablespoons salted butter
- 1/4 cup light brown sugar
- 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon, optional
- 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper, optional
Preheat the oven to 425°F and line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Brush the cut side of the squash with the oil, then season with the salt and pepper. Place on the prepared baking sheet, cut side down, and roast until the flesh of the squash is very soft and tender, 45 to 50 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool slightly.
Optional upgrade: While the squash roasts, melt the butter in a medium saucepan set over medium heat. The butter will get foamy on top. Stir it continuously with a rubber spatula. In 2 to 4 minutes, you’ll see brown bits form on the bottom of the saucepan and the butter will smell nutty. Reduce the heat to low and cook until the foaming subsides and the milk solids are all toasted and brown, about 2 minutes more. Set aside.
When the squash is cool enough to handle, scoop the flesh into a large bowl. If you didn’t brown your butter, cube it and add it now. Using a potato masher, mash the squash until smooth.
Add the browned butter (if applicable), brown sugar, cinnamon, and cayenne (if using). Whisk the squash until smooth, then taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more salt and pepper as needed.